Kungsleden Day 5

Kungsleden Day 5 - 47.2 miles including 4.2 miles by boat

I realize I’ve forgotten to include miles/progress from Day 4 - 42.8 miles including the 2 mile boat crossing to Kvikkjokk.

So far I’ve gone a total of 219.3 miles, 10.1 of which have been by boat (1K of rowing). I have 65.7 miles remaining, including one row (about half mile); not including the morning ferry and bus ride from Saltoluokta to where the trail continues.

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I started my day at 11:40pm. I had a boat to catch toward Aktse 22.2 miles away at 9am and I could not be late! The trail gradually rose and then wove its way around a huge lake, with mountains silhouetted against the clear night sky lined with dim light. Again, it has been dark but not totally dark at night, given the time of year. It was so cold I could see my breath, and the bog boards (planks) were covered in frost. Don’t slip! It was fun to imagine how it must look in the winter here. Total darkness, frozen lakes, and covered in snow.

I crossed a long pass above treeline as it got light out. Just before then, I walked through a birch forest and all the leaves were turning yellow. More signs of autumn!

This mountain reminded me of being in the Whites in New Hampshire. Large rocks all jumbled together, big slabs of rock sloping upward reminiscent of Wildcat. I noticed more and more bits of purple rocks, maybe slate? The geology is changing as I’m heading north!

I was in a euphoric state for most of the morning, it was a beautiful day and I was feeling good. I made it to the lake at 8:20am or so. Perfect! I had a sandwich and waited for the boat to come. The water was perfectly still and reflective.

The boat captains Malin and Ule arrived and we spent around 15 minutes waiting for a large group that never showed. That was okay, I was in no hurry. The next lake crossing was 6 miles away and not until 2:30pm. They saw my small backpack (this is usually the first thing that catches everyone’s eye out here, and sparks many questions!), asked what I was up to, and I shared about my record attempt. They were so excited and asked me a bunch of questions. Then I asked them all about themselves, it turned out they live in southern Sweden and work for STF (Swedish tourist association) in the summer in shifts. This was Malin’s second day out and she’d be here until the end of the season in September. She is also a trail runner and said I should say hi to Kathrine at the shop in Aktse as she’s a trail runner too (which I did)! The views over the lake were stunning. I asked if the water was always this still, and they said, “never!”

I walked into the mountain hut/camp area of Aktse and paused to change, put on sunscreen, charge my things. It was nice to have time. It had been so cold all morning but now that the sun was higher in the sky it was completely pleasant.

I knew on the way up the mountain, that once I had reception I was to call the next boat captains at Sitojaure to let them know I’m on my way. I tried calling, no answer. Then I met another hiker who said he had no luck either. He said he was planning to catch the 5:15pm boat, and that was the next one. Wait, whaa? And sure enough, there was a sign that said the only crossings were at 9am, 5:15pm. Oh dear. I still had 12 miles to go to Saltoluokta, and this meant I would have an extra long day and risk missing the shop closing for dinner/resupply. It wasn’t the end of the world, but in the moment it sure felt like it. I continued up the mountain and started to cry out of frustration. It was my fault, I was a day behind than originally planned and I forgot to check with the boat captain and confirm the crossing times for Sunday.

I then realized I hadn’t had anything to eat or drink in about four hours, which also explained my childlike tantrum up the mountain.

At the top of the mountain I tried calling again… and texting (by cell phone and GPS tracker), emailing, and even an Instagram message. Yes, very obnoxious. But I had to at least try and ask if they would be willing to take me across earlier than 5. No luck though.

I made it to the lake around 12:30pm. Nearly five hours I’d be waiting. I went to a small warming hut by the lake where there were some other hikers waiting, an Italian couple and then the Swedish hiker I’d talked to earlier. The couple offered some tea and I offered some of my candy and we sat around the table sharing stories.

Feeling sleepy, I thought I should probably rest, so I set up my tent and ducked inside. Just as I was dozing off, I was woken up by the roar of a motor. At first I thought I was dreaming, then it hit me, THE BOAT!!

A man dressed in what looked like a race car suit of neon yellow and black walked up to me as I was furiously breaking down my tent and asked, “Are you the runner?” And in a half-daze I exclaimed, “Yes!!” I quickly threw my things in my pack all in a jumble, my hair in a tangle, and stumbled down to the boat in total glee. I couldn’t believe it! A few other hikers that had been by the dock were able to get on the boat too. And we were off! I exclaimed to Lars, the boat captain, “You’re an angel!” He laughed and said, “Tell that to my wife!”

We arrived at the other side and I thanked Lars and Anna (his wife and also boat captain/admin) profusely. Anna said she was sorry she hadn’t seen my messages as she was somewhere without reception, I told her not at all and I was just so happy they came! They wished me luck. It was just after 3pm when I continued along my way.

The remaining miles over a chilly, blustery, cloud-covered landscape went by smoothly. I really feel like I’m finding my groove. It doesn’t feel like such a big deal to knock out these miles, like my legs and feet are getting used to it. Of course, the rest between lake crossings helps.

I made it with plenty of time before the shop closed, bought myself a big can of beef and vegetable soup and a sleeve of cookies, oh and chapstick. It’s been so windy and my lips are cracking! They had a bunk room available, and if no other hikers showed, I’d have it all to myself, which I did. I slept for about 9 hours, more than twice what I’ve been getting the other nights.

The mountain station is lakeside, and the next crossing is at 10:20am. I knew this would be the case. It’s a bummer I can’t get an early start on my last day+, but it is nice to get a full sleep, a real breakfast, and time to reorganize my things and take care of my feet. Plus I had time to write this extra long recap.

After the 10:20am ferry, there’s a bus that will take hikers to where Kungsleden continues in Vakkotavare. It is a long ride, scheduled to drop us off at noon. Then from there it is 66 or so miles to the northern terminus in Abisko (including a ~0.5 mile row, possibly 1.5 miles if I have to tow a boat back to the starting side). I started Wednesday, August 14th at 4:26am, so I’ll have about 16.5 hours to see if I can cover those miles and squeak under 6 days! Otherwise, it will just be, get there as fast as possible. North to Abisko!